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Scuba Tank Ceramic Tumble Media 5 32 x 5 16 Steel or Aluminum Cylindical 35lbs
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Stainless Steel Sharp Scuba Diving Dive KNIFE Snorkel
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Steel Scuba
Steel Scuba

Scuba diving equipment – what is a regulator?

Scuba diving equipment – what is a regulator?

One of the key pieces of dive equipment for a scuba diver is a regulator but, just what is a regulator?

It all begins with the air in the tank and that you will be breathing underwater. To allow you to have sufficient air to stay down for an hour or more (precise depth times depend on depth and your personal air consumption) the air in the tank is pressurised to squeeze lots in.  The working pressure in steel tanks is @2400psi and aluminium tanks @3000psi.

The first function of a regulator is to reduce this pressure down to the ambient pressure that you are underwater plus a predetermined amount so that you can breathe. This is done via a chunky, often chromed brass and termed a ‘first stage'. This is also the piece of equipment that you attach your other air related equipment to e.g. BCD air inflator and gauges.

The piece of equipment that you put into your mouth is referred to as the ‘second stage' and this completes the process of reducing the pressure to the ambient pressure. As long as you keep the regulator in your mouth and inhale it feeds you air.  The second stage works via what is termed as a ‘demand regulator' and simply by inhaling a lever moves inside the mouthpiece and allows air down the hose from the first stage attached to the tank and into your mouth. Stopping breathing (never to be done under water) or exhaling causes the lever to close and stop the feed of air.

When you exhale the lever closes, air is prevented from entering the mouthpiece and the exhaled air is vented out of either the side of the regulator.

Modern scuba diving recommends and most training agencies e.g. PADI insist that for safety reasons you also attach a second regulator to your tank so that a dive buddy can breathe from your tank should they run out of air or their equipment malfunction. The arrangements can be different for technical or commercial diving.

Since this equipment enables the diver to breathe safely underwater it is often the first piece of equipment that divers will be recommended to buy as your life quite literally depends on the safe working of this piece of equipment. Your dive centre will be able to recommend good quality manufacturers and set up the equipment for you.

About the Author

Bruce Sawyer

This article is written by Bruce Sawyer a diver and underwater photographer for 15+ years and the author of the site http://addictedtoscubadiving.com/

SCUBA bouyancy, tips and tricks?

I am 15 years old, 1.62 and 49 kg.
I currently dive with a wetsuit and chickenvest, and in saltwater use 4kg (steel 10l cylinder)
Is this a suitable weight for my size?

I am currently interested in doing my PADI PPB course, but does anybody have any good tips for improving my bouyancy and air consumption?

Hard to say if 4kg is appropriate with that gear configuration because you didn't specify what thickness of wetsuit you are using, and even then it also depends on your personal buoyancy characteristics. The pre-dive buoyancy check should tell you if you are in the right ballpark, and an end-of-dive buoyancy check is the acid test: you should be able to stay at a 5m safety stop with a moderate lung volume, an empty BC, and 34 bar (500 psi) remaining in your tank. If you have to add air to stay at 5m you are overweighted, if you float up to the surface you are underweighted. Don't make big adjustments, only add or remove about 1kg at a time until you find the sweet spot.

Some tips to improve buoyancy control & air consumption in addition to what was already mentioned:

* adjust your trim - the more horizontal you are the better for both air consumption and buoyancy control. Many divers have a false sense of neutral buoyancy because they kick their fins and/or scull with their hands to maintain depth instead of using their BC and lungs. A horizontal trim also improves your efficiency while swimming by reducing the amount of water you have to push out of the way to swim forward.

* add/vent air in short bursts - it is far easier to attain neutral buoyancy with frequent, small adjustments than with big adjustments. Adding or venting a lot of air at once usually results in an overcorrection, and this leads to the phenomenon of yo-yo diving where the diver adds too much air and floats up then vents to much air and sinks then adds too much air and floats up then...

* use your lungs - you can make adjustments to your buoyancy just by using the amount of air in your lungs. If more buoyancy is desired, inhale a little deeper. If less buoyancy is desired, exhale a little more fully. As you get better at buoyancy control you will find that you can go for long periods without adding or venting air in the BC just by using lung volume.

* slow down - drag resists our movement through the water and increases proportionally to the square of the velocity. This means to swim at twice the speed you will have to overcome about four times the drag and so use four times the energy. It isn't usually a race down there, so slow your movements to conserve energy and reduce air consumption.

* streamline - drag also increases proportional to the square of the surface area in the direction of movement. In addition to having good trim and to being properly weighted to minimize the amount of air in your BC, you can help reduce drag by eliminating dangling equipment and gauges. The smaller the "hole" you make when swimming through the water the more efficient you will be.

* stay warm - your breathing rate tends to increase as you get cold, so staying comfortable during and between dives will help lower your air consumption. If you tend to get cold while diving, you might want to consider upping your thermal protection.

Steel SCUBA Tanks: How It's Made